The north is the weather side. The north-east trade wind pushes moisture against the northern flank. Altitude is what decides it: Santana at 380 metres measures around 1,035 millimetres a year against roughly 600 in Funchal. At the coast itself that does not hold — Porto Moniz, at about 599 millimetres, sits at Funchal’s level. This is exactly what the region lives on: water, forest and waterfalls that in places drop straight onto the coast road.
Porto Moniz on the north-western corner has the well-known lava pools — volcanic rock in which the sea refills the basins itself at high tide. One part is developed as a lido and charges admission, a second section stays freely accessible. Driving time from Funchal: 70 minutes.
Seixal lies about 15 minutes east and has the black sand beach with the natural pool that appears in every second photo of Madeira. São Vicente is the traffic hub of the north; from here the road runs back to the south coast over the Encumeada pass at 1,007 metres in about 30 minutes.
Santana in the north-east is known for its thatched A-frame houses, the casas de colmo, and is the starting point for the Levada do Caldeirão Verde.
Kit: a rain jacket belongs in the day pack, even if Funchal was cloudless when you set off.
