{"id":1491,"date":"2026-08-29T08:56:44","date_gmt":"2026-08-29T07:56:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pr17-pinaculo-e-folhadal-2\/"},"modified":"2026-09-03T17:29:35","modified_gmt":"2026-09-03T16:29:35","slug":"pr17-pinaculo-e-folhadal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/pr17-pinaculo-e-folhadal\/","title":{"rendered":"PR 17 Pin\u00e1culo e Folhadal: ca\u0142y dzie\u0144 w terenie"},"content":{"rendered":"<div><style>.wom-trailfig{margin:1.8rem 0}.wom-trailfig__stage > svg{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.wom-trailfig__live svg,.wom-trailfig__live img{width:auto;height:auto;max-width:none;background:none;border:0}.wom-trailfig figcaption{font-size:.78rem;opacity:.66;margin-top:.45rem;line-height:1.45}.wom-trailfig__osm{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.35rem;margin-top:.55rem;font-size:.82rem;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid currentColor;padding-bottom:1px}.wom-trailfig__pin{width:14px;height:14px;flex:0 0 14px}.wom-trailfig__stage{position:relative;overflow:hidden;border-radius:var(--wom-radius,14px);background:var(--wom-paper,#fff);box-shadow:var(--wom-shadow-rest,0 2px 10px rgba(16,38,46,.06))}.wom-trailfig__actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;gap:.5rem .7rem;margin:.7rem 0 0}.wom-trailfig__load{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:.4rem;font:inherit;font-size:.84rem;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer;padding:.42rem .8rem;border:1px solid currentColor;background:none;color:inherit;line-height:1.2}.wom-trailfig__load.wom-trailfig__load{border-radius:var(--wom-radius-xs,6px)}.wom-trailfig__load:hover{background:var(--wom-chip,#ECF4F5)}.wom-trailfig__load[disabled]{opacity:.55;cursor:progress}.wom-trailfig__consent{font-size:.76rem;opacity:.66;flex:1 1 16rem;line-height:1.4}.wom-trailfig__live{height:clamp(300px,52vw,460px);width:100%}.wom-trailfig__live .leaflet-container{height:100%;width:100%;font:inherit;background:var(--wom-map-sea,#D9E9EC)}.wom-trailfig__h{font-weight:600;font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.02em;text-transform:uppercase;margin:0 0 .55rem;padding-bottom:0}.wom-trailfacts{margin:1.6rem 0;border:0;padding:.4rem 1.25rem;background:var(--wom-paper,#fff);border-radius:var(--wom-radius,14px);box-shadow:var(--wom-shadow-rest,0 2px 10px rgba(16,38,46,.06))}.wom-trailfacts dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:0;margin:0}.wom-trailfacts dt{padding:.52rem .9rem .52rem 0;font-size:.8rem;opacity:.7;border-bottom:1px solid var(--wom-hairline,rgba(16,38,46,.10))}.wom-trailfacts dd{padding:.52rem 0;margin:0;font-weight:600;border-bottom:1px solid var(--wom-hairline,rgba(16,38,46,.10))}.wom-trailfacts dl > dt:nth-last-of-type(1),.wom-trailfacts dl > dd:nth-last-of-type(1){border-bottom:0}@media(max-width:520px){.wom-trailfacts dl{grid-template-columns:1fr}.wom-trailfacts dt{border-bottom:0;padding-bottom:0}.wom-trailfacts dd{padding-top:.1rem}}<\/style><div class=\"wom-trailfacts\"><dl><dt>D\u0142ugo\u015b\u0107<\/dt><dd>15 km<\/dd><dt>Czas przej\u015bcia<\/dt><dd>6:30 h<\/dd><dt>Trudno\u015b\u0107<\/dt><dd>trudny<\/dd><dt>Wysoko\u015b\u0107<\/dt><dd>970\u20131,490 m<\/dd><dt>Pocz\u0105tek<\/dt><dd>Lombo do Mouro<\/dd><dt>Koniec<\/dt><dd>Encumeada<\/dd><dt>Op\u0142ata<\/dt><dd><a href=\"https:\/\/simplifica.madeira.gov.pt\/\" rel=\"noopener nofollow\" target=\"_blank\">4,50 \u20ac od osoby (stan 2026-08), rezerwacja przez SIMplifica<\/a><\/dd><\/dl><\/div><\/div>\n<div><script>(function(){\n  var CSS=\"https:\\\/\\\/whatsonmadeira.info\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/wom-brand\\\/vendor\\\/leaflet\\\/leaflet.css\", LIB=\"https:\\\/\\\/whatsonmadeira.info\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/wom-brand\\\/vendor\\\/leaflet\\\/leaflet.js\", IMG=\"https:\\\/\\\/whatsonmadeira.info\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/wom-brand\\\/vendor\\\/leaflet\\\/images\\\/\", ready=null;\n\n  function load(){\n    if(ready) return ready;\n    ready=new Promise(function(res,rej){\n      var l=document.createElement('link');\n      l.rel='stylesheet'; 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308.6L657.6 309.3L661.0 308.2L665.7 307.6L667.8 308.4L674.3 308.1L681.3 307.1L682.1 307.5\"\/><circle class=\"wm-pin\" cx=\"366.7\" cy=\"476.7\" r=\"7\"\/><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-halo\" text-anchor=\"start\" x=\"378.7\" y=\"480.7\">Lombo do Mouro<\/text><circle class=\"wm-pin-end\" cx=\"682.1\" cy=\"307.5\" r=\"7\"\/><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-halo\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"670.1\" y=\"311.5\">Encumeada<\/text><g><line class=\"wm-rule\" x1=\"24.0\" y1=\"496.0\" x2=\"155.6\" y2=\"496.0\"\/><line class=\"wm-rule\" x1=\"24.0\" y1=\"492.0\" x2=\"24.0\" y2=\"500.0\"\/><line class=\"wm-rule\" x1=\"155.6\" y1=\"492.0\" x2=\"155.6\" y2=\"500.0\"\/><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-halo\" x=\"24.0\" y=\"487.0\">1 km<\/text><\/g><g transform=\"translate(648.0 16.0)\"><rect class=\"wm-inset-box\" x=\"0\" y=\"0\" width=\"136.0\" height=\"82.0\" rx=\"3\"\/><path class=\"wm-inset-land\" d=\"M65.9 68.2L69.0 68.8L71.5 71.0L72.7 70.2L75.1 70.0L76.2 68.9L79.1 68.9L77.0 68.7L79.5 67.6L86.0 68.2L90.8 70.2L91.4 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class=\"wm-inset-land\" d=\"M91.2 69.5L91.2 69.5Z\"\/><circle class=\"wm-pin\" cx=\"49.8\" cy=\"40.1\" r=\"4.5\"\/><\/g><\/svg><\/div><p class=\"wom-trailfig__actions\"><button type=\"button\" class=\"wom-trailfig__load\" data-trail=\"pr17\" data-geo=\"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/wp-content\/uploads\/wom-brand\/trails\/pr17.geojson\" data-attrib=\"Kafelki mapy: \u00a9 wsp\u00f3\u0142tw\u00f3rcy OpenStreetMap\" data-fail=\"Nie mo\u017cna teraz wczyta\u0107 mapy interaktywnej.\"><svg class=\"wom-trailfig__pin\" viewBox=\"0 0 16 16\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\"><path d=\"M8 14.5S13 9.8 13 6.4A5 5 0 0 0 3 6.4C3 9.8 8 14.5 8 14.5Z\"\/><circle cx=\"8\" cy=\"6.3\" r=\"1.7\"\/><\/svg><span>Wczytaj map\u0119 interaktywn\u0105<\/span><\/button><span class=\"wom-trailfig__consent\">Dopiero klikni\u0119cie pobiera kafelki z openstreetmap.org \u2014 trafia tam Tw\u00f3j adres IP.<\/span><\/p><a class=\"wom-trailfig__osm\" href=\"https:\/\/www.openstreetmap.org\/relation\/4441703\" rel=\"noopener nofollow\" target=\"_blank\" title=\"Otwiera openstreetmap.org w nowej karcie. Dopiero klikni\u0119cie \u0142\u0105czy z serwisem.\"><svg class=\"wom-trailfig__pin\" viewBox=\"0 0 16 16\" aria-hidden=\"true\" focusable=\"false\" fill=\"none\" stroke=\"currentColor\" stroke-width=\"1.5\" stroke-linecap=\"round\" stroke-linejoin=\"round\"><path d=\"M8 14.5S13 9.8 13 6.4A5 5 0 0 0 3 6.4C3 9.8 8 14.5 8 14.5Z\"\/><circle cx=\"8\" cy=\"6.3\" r=\"1.7\"\/><\/svg>Otw\u00f3rz t\u0119 tras\u0119 interaktywnie w OpenStreetMap<\/a><figcaption>Mapa: opracowanie w\u0142asne na podstawie OpenStreetMap (ODbL). Wysoko\u015bci: EU-DEM przez OpenTopoData. D\u0142ugo\u015b\u0107, czas i trudno\u015b\u0107: visitmadeira.com.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n<h2>Jak si\u0119 idzie<\/h2>\n<p>Trasa nieustannie zmienia charakter: najpierw otwarte partie wysoko\u015bciowe z dalekimi widokami, potem odcinki levady na stromych stokach p\u00f3\u0142nocnych, wreszcie g\u0119sty las wawrzynowy <strong>Folhadal<\/strong>, w kt\u00f3rym nawet w s\u0142o\u0144cu pozostaje p\u00f3\u0142mrok.<\/p>\n<div><figure class=\"wom-trailfig\"><p class=\"wom-trailfig__h\">PR 17 \u2014 Profil wysoko\u015bciowy<\/p><div class=\"wom-trailfig__stage\"><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" viewBox=\"0 0 800 250\" class=\"wom-profile\" role=\"img\" aria-label=\"PR 17: H\u00f6henprofil, 15.5 km, 966\u20131549 m\"><title>PR 17: H\u00f6henprofil, 15.5 km, 966\u20131549 m<\/title><style>.wm-sea{fill:var(--wom-map-sea,#dfe9ee)}\n.wm-land{fill:var(--wom-map-land,#f4f1ea);stroke:var(--wom-map-coast,#c2cdd3);stroke-width:1}\n.wm-route{fill:none;stroke:var(--wom-map-route,#b8332a);stroke-width:3.5;\n  stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-linecap:round}\n.wm-route-alt{fill:none;stroke:var(--wom-map-route,#b8332a);stroke-width:2.4;\n  stroke-dasharray:7 5;stroke-linecap:round;opacity:.75}\n.wm-halo{fill:none;stroke:var(--wom-map-halo,#fff);stroke-width:7;\n  stroke-linejoin:round;stroke-linecap:round;opacity:.85}\n.wm-pin{fill:var(--wom-map-route,#b8332a);stroke:var(--wom-map-halo,#fff);stroke-width:2}\n.wm-pin-end{fill:var(--wom-map-ink,#2b2b2b);stroke:var(--wom-map-halo,#fff);stroke-width:2}\n.wm-t{font:500 13px\/1.2 Inter,system-ui,sans-serif;fill:var(--wom-map-ink,#2b2b2b)}\n.wm-t-place{font-size:12px;fill:var(--wom-map-muted,#6b7378)}\n.wm-t-halo{stroke:var(--wom-map-halo,#fff);stroke-width:3.5;stroke-linejoin:round;\n  paint-order:stroke 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203.3L745.4 201.6L747.8 199.9L750.3 199.8L752.7 199.6L755.1 199.7L757.6 200.2L760.0 201.0L762.5 201.8L764.9 202.3L767.3 203.3L769.8 204.1L772.2 204.9L774.7 205.0L777.1 205.4L779.6 205.7L782.0 206.0\"\/><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"208.6\">1000 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"175.4\">1100 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"142.1\">1200 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"108.9\">1300 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"75.6\">1400 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"end\" x=\"44\" y=\"42.4\">1500 m<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"52.0\" y=\"238\">0 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"146.0\" y=\"238\">2 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"240.0\" y=\"238\">4 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"334.0\" y=\"238\">6 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"428.1\" y=\"238\">8 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"522.1\" y=\"238\">10 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"616.1\" y=\"238\">12 km<\/text><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-place\" text-anchor=\"middle\" x=\"710.1\" y=\"238\">14 km<\/text><circle class=\"wm-pin\" cx=\"271.7\" cy=\"22.0\" r=\"5\"\/><text class=\"wm-t wm-t-halo\" text-anchor=\"start\" x=\"281.7\" y=\"14.0\">1549 m<\/text><\/svg><\/div><figcaption>Profil policzono z modelu wysoko\u015bciowego o oczku 25 m \u2014 pokazuje kszta\u0142t trasy, nie warto\u015bci co do metra.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n<p>Profil pokazuje, co oznacza urz\u0119dowa klasyfikacja: nie idzie si\u0119 raz w g\u00f3r\u0119 i raz w d\u00f3\u0142, lecz bez przerwy. W sumie na pi\u0119tnastu kilometrach zbiera si\u0119 kilkaset metr\u00f3w przewy\u017cszenia w obu kierunkach.<\/p>\n<p>Po drodze le\u017cy kilka <strong>nieo\u015bwietlonych tuneli<\/strong>, cz\u0119\u015bciowo wilgotnych i niskich. Czo\u0142\u00f3wka jest wyposa\u017ceniem obowi\u0105zkowym, nie dodatkiem.<\/p>\n<h2>Czego ta trasa wymaga<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Wytrzyma\u0142o\u015bci.<\/strong> Sze\u015b\u0107 i p\u00f3\u0142 godziny bez skr\u00f3tu. Po drodze nie ma punktu, w kt\u00f3rym da\u0142oby si\u0119 wygodnie zej\u015b\u0107.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Pewnego kroku.<\/strong> Odcinki levady na stokach p\u00f3\u0142nocnych s\u0105 w\u0105skie, mokre i miejscami niezabezpieczone.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Odporno\u015bci na pogod\u0119.<\/strong> Trasa le\u017cy niemal na ca\u0142ej d\u0142ugo\u015bci po stronie p\u00f3\u0142nocnej, gdzie jest wilgotno i ch\u0142odno tak\u017ce wtedy, gdy Funchal le\u017cy w s\u0142o\u0144cu.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Zapasu czasu.<\/strong> Kto rusza o dziewi\u0105tej, przy przerwach jest u celu ledwie przed wp\u00f3\u0142 do pi\u0105tej. Zim\u0105 robi si\u0119 to napi\u0119te.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Droga powrotna jest problemem planistycznym<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Pocz\u0105tek i koniec le\u017c\u0105 daleko od siebie<\/strong>, a mi\u0119dzy Lombo do Mouro a Encumead\u0105 nie ma sensownego po\u0142\u0105czenia pieszego. Kto zostawi samoch\u00f3d na starcie, wieczorem stoi pi\u0119tna\u015bcie kilometr\u00f3w od niego.<\/p>\n<p>Przy Encumeadzie zatrzymuj\u0105 si\u0119 autobusy w stron\u0119 Ribeira Brava i S\u00e3o Vicente, ale rzadko i z niepewnymi przesiadkami. Na tej trasie <a href=\"\/pl\/transfery-na-szlaki\/\">transfery na szlaki<\/a> albo drugi samoch\u00f3d s\u0105 praktycznie jedynym czystym rozwi\u0105zaniem \u2014 dow\u00f3z na Lombo do Mouro, odbi\u00f3r przy Encumeadzie.<\/p>\n<p>To tak\u017ce pow\u00f3d, dla kt\u00f3rego PR 17 widuje si\u0119 w\u015br\u00f3d id\u0105cych samodzielnie rzadziej, ni\u017c zas\u0142uguje na to jej krajobraz.<\/p>\n<h2>Rezerwacja<\/h2>\n<p>Trasa jest p\u0142atna i wymaga rezerwacji przez SIMplifica w oknach 30-minutowych. Przebieg opisuje <a href=\"\/pl\/rezerwacja-szlakow-simplifica\/\">rezerwacja szlak\u00f3w<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Przy silnym deszczu lub urz\u0119dowym ostrze\u017ceniu szlak jest zamykany \u2014 przy trasie tej d\u0142ugo\u015bci, z tunelami i levadami na stoku p\u00f3\u0142nocnym, nie jest to formalno\u015b\u0107.<\/p>\n<h2>Cz\u0119ste pytania<\/h2>\n<h3>Czy tras\u0119 PR 17 da si\u0119 podzieli\u0107?<\/h3>\n<p>Nie w sensowny spos\u00f3b. Po drodze nie ma zej\u015bcia z dost\u0119pem do drogi.<\/p>\n<h3>Jak trudne jest tu \u201etrudne\u201d?<\/h3>\n<p>To nie jest trudno\u015b\u0107 alpejska \u2014 nie ma wspinaczki ani ekspozycji jak na grani PR 1. To d\u0142ugo\u015b\u0107, wilgo\u0107 i obci\u0105\u017cenie ci\u0105gn\u0105ce si\u0119 przez ca\u0142y dzie\u0144.<\/p>\n<h3>W kt\u00f3r\u0105 stron\u0119 i\u015b\u0107 PR 17?<\/h3>\n<p>Od Lombo do Mouro do Encumeady, jak w opisie urz\u0119dowym. W odwrotnym kierunku d\u0142ugie podej\u015bcie wypada na koniec dnia.<\/p>\n<h3>Czy na PR 17 warto wzi\u0105\u0107 przewodnika?<\/h3>\n<p>Dla tej trasy wycieczka z przewodnikiem jest najbardziej naturalnym formatem \u2014 rozwi\u0105zuje przy okazji transport i rozplanowanie dnia, kt\u00f3re s\u0105 tu g\u0142\u00f3wnym problemem.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Pi\u0119tna\u015bcie kilometr\u00f3w, sze\u015b\u0107 i p\u00f3\u0142 godziny, urz\u0119dowo trudna \u2014 najbardziej wymagaj\u0105ca trasa tego przewodnika i jedyna, kt\u00f3ra zajmuje ca\u0142y dzie\u0144. Przecina teren od Lombo do Mouro przez p\u00f3\u0142nocne stoki masywu centralnego a\u017c do Encumeady, prze\u0142\u0119czy mi\u0119dzy wybrze\u017cem p\u00f3\u0142nocnym a po\u0142udniowym.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1491","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-szlaki-lewady"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1491","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1491"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1491\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1491"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1491"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/whatsonmadeira.info\/pl\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1491"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}